September 11, 2008

If Stefan Miljanic's new collection for Gilded Age wasn't quite the revelatory surprise that his last was, that's simply because his Fall offering already felt so accomplished that it would only be surprising if he didn't match it for Spring. So the good news was this: no surprise. He once again drew on a particular New York community for inspiration—this time, its artists. The reference points were wide and random enough to encompass the colors of Edward Hopper, a vintage-feeling V-neck tee Miljanic took from a photo of Thomas Hart Benton, and the kind of slouchy worn denims he imagined AbEx icon Jackson Pollock wearing. (Pollock's style was also grist for Adam Kimmel's mill several years ago.)

But what the designer did with this backstory was ultimately less interesting than what he did with the raw materials of his own trade. His dyeing and washing processes, for instance. A hunting jacket in indigo chambray had been washed to bring out imperfections that added appealing texture. T-shirts were organically dyed in Japan, the intensity of the orange shade achieved by 12 days weathering on a rooftop, the indigo dipped 11 times to get its color right. The result will retail for $280. "It's artisanal work that is appreciated by a few," said Miljanic with a hint of rue. But such connoisseurs of cloth would surely also appreciate the designer's double-faced shorts, the interior a gorgeous plaid for the private delight of the wearer. (He truly understands the pleasure of clothes.) Double-facing was something of a theme in wrinkled plaid shirts, a seamless tee, or cotton gauze hoodies. Knits were a strength: cardigans in burnt orange, pale blue, and gray banded in navy, or reversible cotton-cashmere hoodies. And if many of the items had a hardy look, they had a caressing, luxurious hand. That seems to be the signature of this new Gilded Age.

— Tim Blanks